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I. THE SMOKE-RACK Description: A wooden framework designed to suspend meat over a slow, smoldering fire. The smoke cures the meat, drawing out moisture and coating it in preservative compounds. Properly smoked meat can last weeks—even months in cold weather. Use: Preserving large quantities of meat; preventing spoilage and deterring insects. Materials: Green branches (will not burn easily) or salvaged metal poles Strong cordage (sinew, rope) A tanned hide or canvas (to direct smoke) Hardwood chips or dried dung (for smoke generation) Process: Frame Construction: Lash four vertical poles into the ground in a square, about 4 feet apart. Connect them with horizontal crossbeams at the top. Ensure the structure is sturdy—it will bear significant weight. Hanging the Meat: Slice meat into thin strips (no thicker than ½ inch) to ensure even smoking. Pierce each strip and thread with cordage. Hang strips from the crossbeams, ensuring they do not touch each other. The Smoke Source: Build a small, controlled fire beneath the rack. Use hardwood chips, green wood, or dried dung to produce thick smoke with minimal flame. Do not let the fire roar. You want smoke, not heat. Cooking the meat ruins the preservation. Covering: Drape a hide or canvas over the top of the rack to trap smoke. Leave a small vent at the top to allow moisture to escape. Duration: Small game: 6–12 hours. Large game (Muskox, Strider): 24–48 hours. Warning: Check the fire constantly. If it goes out, spoilage begins. If it flares, the meat cooks and rots later. II. THE CACHE PIT Description: A storage method using the Northern Continent's greatest quantity of material—ice. By digging into the permafrost and creating a sealed chamber, you create a natural freezer that keeps meat frozen indefinitely. Use: Long-term storage of frozen meat, hides, and perishable supplies. Materials: Digging tools (shovel, pickaxe, or scavenged metal) Flat stones or wooden planks (for flooring and lining) Branches and hides (for insulation and cover) Heavy rocks (to seal the lid) Process: Site Selection: Choose ground that remains frozen year-round—shaded areas, north-facing slopes, or ice shelves. Avoid areas with visible meltwater or thermal vents. Excavation: Dig a pit at least 4 feet deep and 3 feet wide. Depth is critical—the deeper you go, the colder and more stable the temperature. In solid permafrost, this may take days. Use hot stones or fire to soften the ice if necessary. Lining: Line the floor and walls with flat stones or wooden planks to keep supplies off the ice and allow drainage. This prevents meat from freezing into the walls. Storage: Place meat inside, wrapped in hide or leaves to prevent freezer-burn and contamination. Organize by type and age—oldest meat near the top for first use. Sealing: Cover the pit with a wooden lid or a lattice of branches. Layer hides or moss on top for insulation. Place heavy rocks around the edges to prevent scavengers from lifting the lid. Warning: Mark the location clearly with a tall pole. A buried cache is useless if you cannot find it in a blizzard. III. THE WATER-TIGHT CASK Description: A sealed container crafted from wood, bone, or scavenged metal. Essential for storing water in a liquid state (preventing it from freezing solid) or keeping dry herbs, salt, and powders protected from moisture. Use: Water storage, herb preservation, transport of volatile materials. Materials: Wooden staves (cut from hardwood) OR a hollowed log OR scavenged metal container Metal or bone hoops (to hold staves together) Pitch, resin, or melted fat (for waterproofing) A fitted lid Process: Shaping the Staves: Cut wood into narrow, curved planks (staves). Bevel the edges so they fit together tightly when curved. Assembly: Arrange staves in a circle and bind them with hoops made of bent wood, bone, or scavenged metal. Heat the hoops slightly to shrink them tight against the wood. Waterproofing: Heat pitch or resin until liquid. Brush the interior seams generously. For added seal, melt animal fat and coat the interior walls. The Lid: Carve a lid that fits snugly into the opening. Some casks use a cloth or leather cover tied over the lid for extra protection. Testing: Fill with water. If it leaks, apply more pitch. For liquid storage in freezing temperatures: wrap the cask in furs or bury it slightly to insulate. Warning: A cask that freezes solid with water inside will crack. Always leave space for expansion, or store in insulated areas.
