This is one of my most detailed emulators of a vintage device yet, probably tied with Shadow's Tank Fury 1979. All the (existing) settings are completely accurate to the real deal, however there are a few settings missing that this project doesn't need. Disclaimer: The Durling Model O-2 is not a real device. This was based off an EICO Model 460, which IS a real device. Use number keys 1-5 to change waveform. Power: On/off switch for the scope. The orange light next to it turns on when activated. Startup progress: Not on any real scopes - this was just added for you so you know that the project is actually running. A meter that shows how ready the machine is to be used by measuring the temperature of the vacuum tubes. Intensity: The power of the beam in the CRT screen. Too much intensity causes the line to bold, showing less detail of the wave. Focus: The focus of the CRT beam. Too much or too little focus causes the line to blur. The focal point varies with intensity. When using an old oscilloscope, you should be trying to get the thinnest but brightest line possible. This can only be achieved by very certain adjustments of intensity and focus. Sweep vernier: Time period of the display. When the vernier is low, it shows more cycles of the wave. On vintage 'scopes like this, getting the wave to "stay put" is a little difficult because the vernier is very touchy and sensitive. Hor gain: Horizontal axis amplitude. This spreads out the wave horizontally, allowing you to see more details of waves. Light: Determines the brightness of the display light which shows a grid. This is used in real oscilloscopes for measuring frequency and amplitude. Vert gain: Vertical axis amplitude. This spreads out the wave vertically to see more details. Too much gain causes clipping.
